Showing posts with label Tools. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tools. Show all posts
Friday, December 4, 2015
How To Make Square Cuts In Dimensional Lumber

There are a number of different ways that you can make square cuts in dimensional lumber such as 1x6's, 2x4, 2x6's, etc., which vary in price. Most will also allow you to make accurate angled cuts such as 45 degree cuts.
As with any tools, make sure to read, understand and follow all instructions that come with the tools.
Good
Speed Square and Circular Saw
The cheapest and quickest way to make square cuts in dimensional lumber if you already have a circular saw is to use a Swanson Speed Square
as a saw guide.
Simply place the edge of the square on an edge perpendicular to the direction you'd like to cut and use the edge of the square as a guide to run the edge of your circular saw's fence on.
It's important to follow the guide carefully and to have a good circular saw that will sit flat on it's base and can be adjusted to a true 90 degrees. I have a cheap circular saw that I bought for around $40 that was used for some demolition. I'm not sure if it ever sat flat or was able to get the blade square but it's difficult to get it to now.
If you're using this method do a test cut to make sure the cuts are coming out square. You can use the speed square to measure the angle of the cut.
Simply place the edge of the square on an edge perpendicular to the direction you'd like to cut and use the edge of the square as a guide to run the edge of your circular saw's fence on.
It's important to follow the guide carefully and to have a good circular saw that will sit flat on it's base and can be adjusted to a true 90 degrees. I have a cheap circular saw that I bought for around $40 that was used for some demolition. I'm not sure if it ever sat flat or was able to get the blade square but it's difficult to get it to now.
If you're using this method do a test cut to make sure the cuts are coming out square. You can use the speed square to measure the angle of the cut.
Better
Miter Box
A miter box is a plastic box that has slits cut at precise angles that guide the saw to allow you to make fairly accurate angled cuts in molding or dimensional lumber. Years ago you could find affordable wooden miter boxes but these days all I see are the plastic ones like the Stanley 20-600 Clamping Miter Box
pictured left which includes slits for a number of different angles, including face angles. It comes with a sharp back saw and cam pins to help hold your wood in place. The pins don't hold the wood that securely so some quick clamps
would help.
Contractor Miter Box
The Stanley 20-800 Contractor Grade Clamping Mitre Box
is similar to a Jorgensen miter saw I own. The Stanley has holes for cam pins but it's essentially the same. These are slightly more expensive than the yellow plastic miter boxes but are easier to mount on a work bench. The saw has a replaceable blade (click here for replacement blade
) which makes it a little cheaper to own in the long run compared to buying an entire back saw
. The hardened steel saw blade is also capable of cutting metal. If you need to make straight or angle cuts in metal, this is the best manual miter box to buy.
It may look like you can create almost any angle you'd like but it only will lock in on 5 detents for 90, 45 and 22.5 degreens (on either side). It is very affordable compared to power miter saws and provides accurate cuts. The saw blade is very sharp.
I find it easier to use some Quick-Clamps to hold the wood in place rather than the built in clamps.
If you like the idea of a manual miter saw that is safer, cleaner and quieter than a power miter saw but want something a little better you can have a look at the Nobex Proman Miter Saw
.
It may look like you can create almost any angle you'd like but it only will lock in on 5 detents for 90, 45 and 22.5 degreens (on either side). It is very affordable compared to power miter saws and provides accurate cuts. The saw blade is very sharp.
I find it easier to use some Quick-Clamps to hold the wood in place rather than the built in clamps.
If you like the idea of a manual miter saw that is safer, cleaner and quieter than a power miter saw but want something a little better you can have a look at the Nobex Proman Miter Saw
Best
Power Miter Saw
A power miter saw like the Hitachi C10FCE2 10-Inch Compound Miter Saw
is almost 4x as much as the contractor miter box but if you have a lot of square or angled cuts to make will be worth the price.
It's noisier than a manual miter box and sawdust gets everywhere but it cuts even hardwood in about a second and with little effort. Compound miter saws are adjustable in 2 different directions and have more flexibility when it comes to angles. There are detents for the more popular angles but you can also usually lock them into any angle you'd like.
If you have a lot of cuts to make but don't want to spend over $100 you can look for a Factory-Reconditioned Ryobi ZRTS1141L 9 Amp 7-1/4-in Miter Saw with Laser
or rent one for the day.
It's noisier than a manual miter box and sawdust gets everywhere but it cuts even hardwood in about a second and with little effort. Compound miter saws are adjustable in 2 different directions and have more flexibility when it comes to angles. There are detents for the more popular angles but you can also usually lock them into any angle you'd like.
If you have a lot of cuts to make but don't want to spend over $100 you can look for a Factory-Reconditioned Ryobi ZRTS1141L 9 Amp 7-1/4-in Miter Saw with Laser
Fiber Optic Cable Cleaver Tool Overview
The CT-10A fiber optic cleaver provides high quality cleaving at an economical price. Designed for cleaving single fiber only, this cleaver is best suited for the installation of field installable connectors and mechanical splices. The rugged yet scaled-down design offer cleave quality approaching that of more expensive high precision cleavers. The long-life, 16-position fat diamond blade is easily replaced by the end user and performs cleaving operation in one single step. An optional scrap collector can be purchased separately.
• Dedicated for single fiber cleaving
• User replaceable flat diamond blade
• Simple and single-step operation
• Blade life up to 64,000 cleaves
• Compact and light weight
• Detachable fiber scrap collector FC-03 available as option
Applicable Fiber: Conventional silica optical fiber
Fiber Count: Single fiber
Coating Diameter: 250µm to 900µm
Cladding Diameter: 125µm
Cleave Length:
6 to 20 mm (with AD-10 & coating = 250µm)
8 to 20mm (with AD-10 & coating > 250µm)
10mm (with FH-50/60 fiber holders)
Cleave Angle: Capability Typically 0.5˚
Dimensions: (W x D x H) 71mm x 88mm x 48mm (2.8" x 3.5" x 1.9")
Weight: 220g (0.48 lbs)
For more information on termination fiber optic cable and connectors you may contact Mercy Salinas at 888-797-3697 extension 232 or comment below!
"Author: Mercy Salinas"
Read more »
• Dedicated for single fiber cleaving
• User replaceable flat diamond blade
• Simple and single-step operation
• Blade life up to 64,000 cleaves
• Compact and light weight
• Detachable fiber scrap collector FC-03 available as option
Applicable Fiber: Conventional silica optical fiber
Fiber Count: Single fiber
Coating Diameter: 250µm to 900µm
Cladding Diameter: 125µm
Cleave Length:
6 to 20 mm (with AD-10 & coating = 250µm)
8 to 20mm (with AD-10 & coating > 250µm)
10mm (with FH-50/60 fiber holders)
Cleave Angle: Capability Typically 0.5˚
Dimensions: (W x D x H) 71mm x 88mm x 48mm (2.8" x 3.5" x 1.9")
Weight: 220g (0.48 lbs)
For more information on termination fiber optic cable and connectors you may contact Mercy Salinas at 888-797-3697 extension 232 or comment below!
"Author: Mercy Salinas"
Labels:
cleaver,
fiber optic,
tool,
Tools
Tips For Making Cabinets Square With A Circular Saw

Reader question on how to get square cabinets when cutting plywood with a circular saw and what to do when your cabinets aren't square. A lot of good information on how to buy a circular saw for cutting plywood too.
A couple of days ago I received the following email from Catherine regarding cabinets that aren't square.
Hi,In a follow up email I found out she's cutting her plywood with a circular saw and guide with pocket screw joinery. Since this is how I also cut my plywood I'm very familiar with the problems. There are four main problems that can cause your cabinets to not be square. In this article I'll discuss what causes cabinets to not be square as well as how to prevent them. At the end I'll discuss what to do when things don't line up square.
I just found your site and love it. I'm new to woodworking and want to know what tools you use keep boxes square? I see a lot of 90 degree clamps out there and wonder if you recommend any of them? Also, what do you do if your project isn't square? How can you adjust it? Say a cabinet or bookcase for example.
Thank you, Catherine
I had planned to write a separate guide on how to buy a circular saw but Catherine's question brings up a lot of the points I wanted to address so I'm including that here.
Read more »
Labels:
Cabinets,
How To,
Jigs,
tips,
Tools,
Wood Joints,
Woodworking
Kreg-Mini Cheat Sheet

Read more »
Virtual Tour - SignalTek 33-974 Cable Tester from Ideal Industries
Features and Benefits of the SignalTek Cable Tester:
- Gigabit Performance Testing - Know the true performance of the Network
- Easy to read Pass/Fail performance reports that can be Stored and Printed for documentation
- Performs Gigabit Ethernet link establishment in 10 seconds
- Brilliant high-resolution color display visible in any lighting condition
- Maximum coverage with a full 2 year warranty
- Data Monitoring to detect intermittent network problems
- Easy to order from Discount-Low-Voltage.com
- More...
Related Posts:
Product Video - Magnepull Wire Fishing Tool
Features and Benefits of the Magnepull:
- Made in the USA
- Reduces cable fishing time by 70%
- Developed for commercial and residential applications
- Can be used horizontally and vertically allowing easy control of your wires to the outlet
- Pulls easily and effectively through insulated or non-insulated walls and under carpet
- Allows for installation in confined spaces
- In stock now!
- Easy to order from Discount-Low-Voltage.com
- More...
Related Posts:
Greenlee GL-UT2 Ultra Tugger 2 Cable Puller Video
Let's take a look at what the Ultra Tugger Cable Puller from Greenlee has to offer. Enjoy
Read more »
GL-UT2 Ultra Tugger Cable Puller
For more details, contact us at (888) 797-3697 or visit Discount-Low-Voltage.com/InfoFiber Optic Visual Fault Finder - AFL HiLite Product Video
The AFL HiLite fiber optic visual fault finder is the star of this weeks Product Video Blog.
First, some information on visual fault finders:
Fault finders are designed to troubleshoot faults on fiber optic cables by sending a red laser beam through the fiber optic cable. Light generated by these units will escape from sharp bends and breaks in jacketed or bare fibers, as well as poorly mated connectors. They can identify faults in fiber optic jumper cables, distribution frames, patch panels, and splice trays. In addition, they can also be used to aid installation of AFL FAST fiber optic connectors.
Watch the Video!
Features and Benefits of the AFL HiLite:
- Compact, lightweight size
- Visible red laser source, 650 nm
- Easily locate faults in fiber optic cable, fiber jumpers, and more
- Includes 2.5mm adapter for popular SC and ST fiber optic connectors
- High power, 1 mW
- Universal connector interface for quick connection
- Easy to order from Discount-Low-Voltage.com
Related Posts:
Video: How It's Made - Fiber Optic Cable
Video: How To Terminate Fiber Optic Cable Using AFL FAST Connectors
Tutorial: Difference Between Loose Tube Fiber Optic Cable and Tight Buffered Fiber Cable
Whitepaper: Fiber Optic 10 Gigabit Ethernet Technology Overview
FAQ: Glossary of Common Fiber Optic Terms (A-E)
Is the Gerber Groundbreaker Multitool Worth the Price?

This past weekend I was installing a couple of wireless switches that work in conjunction with my garage door opener. A fairly simple project and not the first time I used the Groundbreaker but it's the first project that unexpectedly required me to use much of the extra features of the Groundbreaker.
First, the switches came in that annoying plastic packaging that needs to be cut open and I used the Groundbreaker's utility knife to do that. I needed to strip a ground pigtail to connect it to the switches and the grounded outlet box. Always need pliers when doing electrical work and the Groundbreaker's plier jaws and wire bending loops worked perfectly. The switches have a wire antenna that needs to be fed down the wall and I was able to use the drywall saw on the Groundbreaker to slightly enlarge the wall opening around the bottom of the outlet box to feed the antennas through. The only thing I didn't use was the hammering surface. I really tried to think of a way to use them on the project too.
The saw, driver and utility knife are located on the handles and can be used with the handles still on the Groundbreaker. If you find that a little too cumbersome for some work, the handles are removable.
More importantly. Everything was right on my belt within easy reach when I needed it. I didn't have to waste time running around looking for a half dozen different tools that are in various locations as I realized I'd need them. Seems like have the time I work on any DIY projects I'm running up and down stairs or out to the garage looking for a tool.
Not only the tools that are part of the Groundbreaker but other tools that are important when doing electrical work. A loop on the bottom of the sheath can hold a couple of rolls of electrical tape. A tool holder on the right can hold a screwdriver or a pencil and the pocket on the left is the perfect size for my Milwaukee Non-Contact Voltage Detector. In addition to being a voltage tester it has a little flashlight on it so I could have a good look inside the box when I needed to. I also keep a philips head screwdriver in the pouch but I use the Groundbreaker's screwdriver for slotted screws.
Everything I need to do some electrical work around the house is right there in one place ready to go when I need it. The belt loop unsnaps so you don't even have to take off your belt and a flap on the back of the sheath slips in your back pocket so it doesn't flap around as you move.
This is how I normally keep the Groundbreaker sheath set up. Non-contact voltage detector in one pocket, philips screwdriver in the other, a pencil in the main pouch and a roll of electrical tape on the loop. It's always ready to go.
But still.... It's expensive. At first look I thought it was neat but I don't think I would spend that much for it. As luck would have it, I needed a new set of wire strippers at the same time the Groundbreaker was made available to me for free so I could review it. The more I used it the more I appreciated the multitool aspects of it over individual tools. It has saved me quite a bit of time. So let's look at what it would take to create a Groundbreaker experience with individual tools and how much it will cost.
Multifunction Strippers $22.76 -- The Klein 1001 Multipurpose Electrician's Tool has similar features to the Groundbreaker as far as wire stripping, cutting, terminal screw cutting and crimping goes.
Pliers $29 -- Klein Tools 9" High Leverage Side Cutting Pliers.
Screwdriver $16.99 --Milwaukee 10-in-1 ECX Multibit screwdriver.
Utility Knife $5.97 -- Stanley Quick-Change Retracting Utility Knife.
Drywall Saw $7.97 -- Milwaukee 6" Fixed Jab Saw
Pouch $29.98 -- Dead On Tools HDP222496 Electricians Professional Pouch
Total: $112.95
The price of the Gerber Groundbreaker doesn't seem too high anymore when you compare it to individual tools of similar quality. Plus you get everything in a smaller package that doesn't take up a lot of space or weight on your belt, toolbox or drawer.
For me, I just like having a small compact set of tools I can grab and go when I occasionally need to do electrical work. I don't know about you but I've tried to set up individual tool kits in the past and it never pans out. If I did build the electrical tool kit above it wouldn't be long before everything went missing. If I needed a utility knife, screwdriver, pliers, or drywall saw and my electrical pouch was closer than other tool kits, I'd grab it from there. Slowly the tools would make their way to other areas and tool storage cases, defeating the whole purpose of being able to grab one set of tools quickly to get the job done fast.
Is the Groundbreaker worth the high price? Yes in my opinion.
At first I thought the Groundbreaker was overpriced and a bit gimmicky. The more I've used it the more practical I realize it is. It's also a very well made tool with a Lifetime Limited Warranty. Gerber is one of Fiskar's brands. You probably know them from the high quality scissors and outdoor cutting equipment they make.
See more info and current pricing at HomeDepot.com.
12 Stocking Stuffers for the DIYer under $25

Twelve useful tools, gadgets and accessories under $25 that make great stocking (err... toolbelt?) stuffers for the DIYer in your life. What's great about most of these is even if they already own one, a second one to keep in another location will be very handy.
Read more »Thursday, December 3, 2015
DIY Drywall/Plywood Panel Carrier

The night before a big drywall delivery I could already feel my lower back starting to ache just thinking about it so I tried to come up with a cheap solution to help me move drywall down to my basement.
I looked online for tools that would help carry drywall and I found some good choices below:
Problem was I thought about this too late and there was no way I could get something before the delivery truck came the next morning. :(
![]() |
| Panel Carriers Back View |
The measurements don't have to be exact and you might want to suit them to your height and arm length to make them more comfortable.
Tools Required
- Saw (circular, miter saw, hand saw anything that can cut 2x4's and some plywood, doesn't have to be pretty)
- Drill
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
(optional but recommended)
Materials
- 1 - 2x4 8'
- 1 - 1/2" plywood enough to make 2 roughly 5" x 6" pieces.
- 2 - metal handles (garage door type)
- 2 - industrial castors
- 4 - Kreg SML-C250-250 2-1/2-Inch #8 Coarse Washer-Head Pocket Hole Screws
- 16 - 2" wood screws.
- 12 - 1" wood screws
Construction
The panel carriers consist of a few simple parts.The top handle is a 4" piece of 2x4 screwed into the upright using 2 pocket hole screws. If you don't have a pocket hole jig you can just use 2 1/2" wood screws from the face of the upright but the pocket screws feel sturdier to me.
An upright 2x4. This is going to be around 34-38" long depending on your height and arm length. The height of the upright should put the top handle around waist high so that you can easily move the panel and lift up the carrier to go up a curb or one or two steps.
At the bottom of the upright attaches a roughly 6" 2x4 with 4 2" wood screws.
To keep the panel from slipping off the carrier a piece of 1/2" (or 3/4" whatever scrap you have) is attached to the front of the bottom 2x4. The top should be about 1.5-2" above the bottom 2x4 so that it forms a lip.
Use 4 1" screws to attach an industrial grade castor to the bottom 2x4 piece. The wheels are optional but if you have a lot of sheet goods to move they make the job easier.
A metal handle like the type used on the bottom of garage doors can be attached to the back of the upright towards the bottom. This handle is used when moving sheet goods up or down stairs. I played mine around 4" from the bottom of the upright but try and figure out the correct placement that would be most comfortable for you.
Using the Panel Carriers
To use the panel carriers, simply lay the panel carriers on the stack of drywall (or plywood), slide 2 sheets of drywall off the stack and into the lip of the panel carrier, Lift the drywall and panel carriers up 90 degrees to vertical at the same time. Use one hand to guide the panel carrier, the other to keep the panels from flopping off the carrier and then just roll away.
If you have to carry the drywall up or down stairs the bottom handles come in handy to keep the panel from hitting the stairs and getting damaged. The person on the lower end of the stairs needs to be able to hold the panel from sliding down.
If you need to move drywall or plywood sheets yourself you can try attaching the two panel carriers together using a couple lengths of 2x4 as show in the photo below.
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| Panel Carriers Connected |
Which Kreg Pocket Hole Jig To Buy

Kreg makes a number of different pocket hole jigs that range in price from very cheap, to somewhat expensive. This post will help you decide which Kreg jig to buy.
Why Pocket Hole Joints?
Pocket screw joinery is the best option for the do-it-yourselfer because pocket screws create very strong joints and don't require you to have a lot of special or expensive tools that you won't use frequently.
Dowels, biscuits, half lap joints, dovetaills, and so on are time consuming and sometimes require specialty tools. If you're not a full time carpenter and just like to build things from time to time because it not only saves money but it's fun, it's important to not spend a lot of money on tools that will collect dust. All you need are butt joints which are easy to cut even on a small budget. See my post on how to make square cuts. Getting perfectly square cuts will ensure a straight project and strong joints.
You don't need dozens of clamps! The screws will hold the work pieces together. Clamps aren't cheap and even small projects wind up needing more clamps than I have. I built a number of euro style cabinets to make a built-in desk and I don't own a single expensive, long bar clamp!
How Strong Are Pocket Hole Joints?
Pretty strong from my experience. I haven't done any formal testing but the first thing I built with my Kreg Mini when I got it was a pair of panel carriers to move some drywall and plywood down to my basement. We were moving 2 sheets at a time, about 104 lbs, down the stairs. About half the time using the top handle with the pocket hole joint. About 2,000 lbs of drywall and plywood was moved this way. That was about 3 years ago and I've used them a few times since and they haven't failed. Cabinets, desks, and all other projects I built with Kreg pocket holes have been very sturdy too.
Kreg Mini Pocket Hole Jig
The Kreg Mini Kreg Jig Kit
only costs around $20 and is a good pocket hole jig to have even if you have more expensive Kreg Jigs because it can get into spaces others can't, like under stairs to make repairs and into tight corners. If you already own another Kreg Jig you can save some money buy just buying the Kreg MKJ Mini Jig
by itself without the accessories.
The accessories that come with the Mini Kreg Jig Kit are a special stepped drill bit that makes the pilot hole and pocket hole in one step. The bit comes with a stop collar and an 4mm hex key for adjusting the collar.
The Kreg Jig Mini makes the same pocket holes it's big brothers make. This is the only Kreg Jig I own and I've used it for numerous projects including cabinets for a built in desk. I learned how strong the pocket screws were when I moved dozens of sheets of drywall with my DIY panel carriers.
It's a little slower to use than the other jigs because you have to manually place the jig in the correct spot. Using makeshift spacers made it easier and using the Kreg Face Clamp
speeds things up even more. You can get a Vise-Grip Locking C Clamp with Swivel Pads
for about half the price but the Kreg Face Clamp has larger pads which will minimize the risk of putting dents in the wood.
The accessories that come with the Mini Kreg Jig Kit are a special stepped drill bit that makes the pilot hole and pocket hole in one step. The bit comes with a stop collar and an 4mm hex key for adjusting the collar.
The Kreg Jig Mini makes the same pocket holes it's big brothers make. This is the only Kreg Jig I own and I've used it for numerous projects including cabinets for a built in desk. I learned how strong the pocket screws were when I moved dozens of sheets of drywall with my DIY panel carriers.
It's a little slower to use than the other jigs because you have to manually place the jig in the correct spot. Using makeshift spacers made it easier and using the Kreg Face Clamp
Kreg Jr. Pocket Hole Jig
In hindsight, I should have bought the Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System
vs the Kreg Mini. It's only about $20 more than the Kreg Mini Jig but it comes with everything you need including a 3" square driver, some screws, pocket hole plugs as well as a case.
The Kreg Jr is a lot faster to use than the Kreg Mini because it comes with built in guides that can be adjusted for the thickness of material you're working with and the case includes a guide to help you adjust the stop collar on the drill bit.
One of the things that slowed me down a lot was having to stop and change the stop collar. In building my desk I used 3/4" and 1/2" plywood and I'd have to stop and readjust the collar using a tape measure. It was a very clumsy process.
With the Kreg mini I would have to unclamp, move the jig over, position it using the spacers, clamp it back down, drill and repeat. With the Kreg Jr I would have been able to just slide the jig over and not have to spend time realigning the jig. When you're making dozens of pocket holes, those few seconds saved each time really add up. A plastic insert allows you to attach the Kreg Face Clamp
to the Kreg Jr Jig which makes repositioning the jig with one hand a snap.
The Kreg Jr is a lot faster to use than the Kreg Mini because it comes with built in guides that can be adjusted for the thickness of material you're working with and the case includes a guide to help you adjust the stop collar on the drill bit.
One of the things that slowed me down a lot was having to stop and change the stop collar. In building my desk I used 3/4" and 1/2" plywood and I'd have to stop and readjust the collar using a tape measure. It was a very clumsy process.
With the Kreg mini I would have to unclamp, move the jig over, position it using the spacers, clamp it back down, drill and repeat. With the Kreg Jr I would have been able to just slide the jig over and not have to spend time realigning the jig. When you're making dozens of pocket holes, those few seconds saved each time really add up. A plastic insert allows you to attach the Kreg Face Clamp
Kreg K4 and K4 Master Pocket Hole Jig
The Kreg Jig K4
and Kreg K4MS Jig Master System
are meant more for professionals and the serious DIY'er woodworker. The K4 runs around $100 and the K4MS goes for about $140. The Master System is essentially the same as the K4 with some extra useful accessories such as the face clamp, portable base, 6" square driver (in addition to the 3" driver) and a material support stop. If you're going to buy the K4 instead of the R3, might as well spend the extra $40 because those accessories come in handy.
The K4 and K4MS are more durable than the other systems. Because the drill guide is stationary and the work piece gets clamped to the dril guide you don't get a small point of pressure from the clamp on the plastic drill guide. My Kreg Mini has some dents in it from clamping with a standard C-clamp but is still usable.
If you frequently make pocket holes and have space on your workbench to permanently or temporarily affix the Kreg K4 Jig, you'll save yourself a lot of setup time. Just slide the work piece in the jig and clamp it down with one hand. A dust collection port allows you to hook up your shop vac to keep your work area clean.
The K4 and K4MS are more durable than the other systems. Because the drill guide is stationary and the work piece gets clamped to the dril guide you don't get a small point of pressure from the clamp on the plastic drill guide. My Kreg Mini has some dents in it from clamping with a standard C-clamp but is still usable.
If you frequently make pocket holes and have space on your workbench to permanently or temporarily affix the Kreg K4 Jig, you'll save yourself a lot of setup time. Just slide the work piece in the jig and clamp it down with one hand. A dust collection port allows you to hook up your shop vac to keep your work area clean.
Kreg Micro Pocket Hole Jig
The Kreg Jig Micro Drill Guide System
makes 25% smaller diameter pocket holes and uses smaller pan head screws which allows you to make pocket holes in thinner stock.
If you frequently use 1/2" plywood or boards to make drawer boxes or picture frames, the Kreg Micro is for you. The Kreg Micro fits into the same bases and accessories that come with the K4 Master system and it can be used on it's own with spacers.
Even though the other Kreg Jigs can make pocket holes for 1/2" stock, many times 1/2" plywood comes in actual thicknesses of less than 1/2" and reducing the size of the pocket hole makes for sturdier construction in thinner pieces.
If you frequently use 1/2" plywood or boards to make drawer boxes or picture frames, the Kreg Micro is for you. The Kreg Micro fits into the same bases and accessories that come with the K4 Master system and it can be used on it's own with spacers.
Even though the other Kreg Jigs can make pocket holes for 1/2" stock, many times 1/2" plywood comes in actual thicknesses of less than 1/2" and reducing the size of the pocket hole makes for sturdier construction in thinner pieces.
Kreg Jig HD Pocket Hole Jig
The Kreg Jig HD Starter Kit KJHD
is specially designed for thicker stock such as 2x3's, 2x'4's and other 2x dimensional lumber. The holes are 25% bigger which provides up to 50% greater strength. This new Kreg Jig was first released in 2012.
Special screws were developed for the new jig that are larger and have a 3 special coatings to resist corrosion. This is a great jig for outdoor projects such as planter benches, outdoor furniture as well as indoor furniture made of dimensional lumber such as workbenches.
The Kreg HD drill guide can accept the Kreg Face Clamp and fits in the K3 and K4 jigs.
Special screws were developed for the new jig that are larger and have a 3 special coatings to resist corrosion. This is a great jig for outdoor projects such as planter benches, outdoor furniture as well as indoor furniture made of dimensional lumber such as workbenches.
The Kreg HD drill guide can accept the Kreg Face Clamp and fits in the K3 and K4 jigs.
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